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One was delighted to discover that the South Indian spice mix podi – a rubble of intensely spicy, coarsely crushed spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” seasoning. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be charitable to say that I’m far less adventurous with chilli, so here I suggest red pepper flakes instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Mint-Lime Dressing

You will need six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if bamboo, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep a quick 10 minutes
Cook half an hour
Serves a couple

Four hundred grams firm potatoes, chopped into 1.5-inch chunks
8 ounces paneer, cut into 0.8-inch cubes
One tsp coriander seeds
Half a tsp fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
One teaspoon black peppercorns
One tsp chilli flakes
One and a half teaspoon flaky sea salt, and additional for garnish
2 garlic pieces, skinned and shredded
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
40ml flavorless oil
1 red onion, skinned and sliced into eight wedges, then cut in half horizontally

For the dressing
Lime zest and juice, freshly prepared
10g fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt
3.5 ounces natural yoghurt

Cook the potatoes for 9 minutes, then remove the water and allow to air dry for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a container with heated water for five minutes, then strain and blot dry.

Tip the cumin, coriander, and fennel seeds into a grinding bowl or mill, add the peppercorns, chilli flakes and sea salt, then mash or process to a chunky blend.

Place in a medium-large bowl with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then lightly combine with the ingredients to coat. Arrange the paneer, potatoes and onions on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then place on a tray and reserve for later – if you like, you can at this stage cover and refrigerate the skewers.

Beat all the dressing components in a container. Turn on the grill to its top temperature, then grill the skewers for 5–7 minutes on each side, until the paneer is golden brown and the potatoes are getting slightly burnt. (This may take a little more or less time depending on the intensity of your oven, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Serve the skewers hot, topped with a little more salt and the accompaniment for drizzling.